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(Re)Fashioning Resistance

Women, Dress and Sexuality in Iran

Shirin Abdmolaei

Functioning as a socio-political resource and method of discipline and control over women's bodies and sexualities, mandatory Islamic dress in Iran has been a central feature of the Islamic Regime's policy towards women. Intended to stand as a symbolic discourse of women's social and sexual submissiveness and docility, those who resist dress codes are subjected to severe punishment as well as stigmatisation. Despite repercussions, increasing numbers of urban Iranian women are refashioning their public bodies in new styles and appearances to not only resist dress codes but to more importantly challenge the regime's patriarchal discourses regarding women. This article seeks to examine the politicisation of Iranian women's bodies and sexualities through the emergence of this innovating women's resistance movement termed 'alternative dress'.

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Beyond the Binary

A Close Reading of Gender-Fluid Masculinities in Gucci's Spring/Summer 2016 Campaign

Judith Beyer

It is a hot summer day in June 2015 when the fashion crowd awaits Gucci's Spring/Summer 2016 Menswear collection at the former Farini railway station on the outskirts of Milan. It is Alessandro Michele's second season at the Italian fashion brand

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A Digital Ethnography of Indian Hijab Stores’ Instagram Pages

Athira B.K. and Nidhi Balyan

working on Muslim clothing practices across geographies have observed that there is an increasing number of consumers of “Islamic fashion” ( Choi and Kim 2019: 1 ) and a search for a broad “non-Western fashion system” ( Akou 2007: 3 ) for a global audience

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Beyond the Discourse of Sexualization

An Inquiry into the Adultification of Tween Girls’ Dressing in Singapore

Bernice Loh

that there are complexities to tween girls’ fashioning of themselves after adults which does not necessarily mean that they are being sexualized, and conversely, that tween girls do not need to fashion themselves sexily in order to fashion themselves

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Gold Teeth, Indian Dresses, Chinese Lycra and ‘Russian’ Hair

Embodied Diplomacy and the Assemblages of Dress in Tajikistan

Diana Ibañez-Tirado

emphasize their attempts to use their bodies in a manner that helps them to become devout Muslims who are also representatives of the Tajik nation, the government, by contrast, seeks to fashion them simply as the incarnation of a national, modern and secular

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Questioning Masculinity and the Gender Binary in Fashion

The Case of Glenn Martens at Y/Project

Nicola Brajato

If “[f]ashion is obsessed with gender, defines and redefines the gender boundary,” as fashion scholar Elizabeth Wilson claims, it seems that in the past decade this obsession has been more emphasized than ever ( Wilson 1985: 117 ). With the

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Baroque Travesty

Queer Anachronism in Gwen van den Eijnde's Fashion Performances

Roberto Filippello

into what it means to practice and feel history (lower-case) through and on the fashioned body, and the queer relationships with both the audience's and his own body that such practice might engender. To parse van den Eijnde's work, I deploy the

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Fashioning Masculinities through Migration

Narratives of Romanian Construction Workers in London

Alexandra Urdea

The present article aims to show that, for migrant men working in London in low- and mid-skilled jobs, migration is a path for fashioning the self as gendered actors striving to improve their livelihoods. The present article describes their

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Self-Fashioning and Auto-Ethnography

Samuel Baron's Description of Tonqueen (1686)

Anna Winterbottom

Samuel Baron's A Description of the Kingdom of Tonqueen (1686) contains many tropes of the European travel narrative. However, its author was no stranger to the country, but was born to a Vietnamese mother and Dutch father in mid-seventeenth-century Hanoi. Here I discuss how Baron fashioned his identity during his life to attract multiple patrons in the unstable maritime world of Southeast and East Asia. I re-read his Description as an example of “auto-ethnography,” showing how the author shaped his work to achieve certain ends. A comparison with a contemporary Chinese description of northern Vietnam reveals many similarities in tone and approach and helps situate Baron's text within the commercial and diplomatic exchanges of the region.

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The Opposite of Custom

Fashion, Sumptuary Law, and Consuetudo in Fifteenth-Century Northern Italy

M. Christina Bruno

Custom, Fashion, and Gender for Franciscan Observants Custom and fashion seem at first glance incompatible: one rooted in time immemorial, the other racing toward innovation at a dizzying pace. This was certainly the view of Francesco Piazza